Where the boys are

Who knew that in Lawrenceville's shops for girly girls, you could find a good man. After all, it's nice to have a man around the house. These guys won't take out the garbage, but they'll never leave a mess for you to clean up either.

You'll never get tired of this guy hanging around. Untitled by Greg Karkowski. $225 at Elements, 5171 Butler St.

There's nothing like a man in a suit. Tailor's prints from the 1920s. Several different prints to choose from, all with vivid colors that are just, er, dandy! About $80 each at Dandelions, 4108 Butler St.

Fall for the boyish charms of original art on wooden blocks by Mark Traughber. $35 each at Divertido, 3701 Butler St.

By the way, just like in real life, you'll have to be patient and look everywhere to find an interesting guy. All of these pieces were kept in the back of the shops!

Art's drawing room

It's a not uncommon fantasy: Many of us have daydreamed as we visited an art gallery, wondering what it would be like to stay behind after the doors closed to visitors. At the Louvre would you bed down in front of Mona? Camp out amid the ruins of the Parthenon at the British Museum? Dunk your feet in the pool of the inner peristyle at the Getty Villa in Malibu?

In A.S. Byatt's The Children's Book, a boy turns a gallery into his home. Mary Coleman has done the opposite: She's turned her home into a gallery.

If out-of-towners were to ask me what's the one thing they should see in Lawrenceville, I would say The Gallery on 43rd Street. It's our Versailles. A formerly private space made public. A glimpse into the past, chock-full of current treasures from Western Pennsylvania artists. And it's right in our own backyard.

Paintings by Dylan Critchfield-Sales are currently featured in the former, uh, drawing room.

The purity of his pictures, still lifes and portraits, complement the space. The floorboards, still  rough from when Coleman first moved in and ripped up the carpeting 17 years ago, let the 1881 house breathe. And Minnie the indoor cat, seen in the window at left, is keepin'  it real.

On the other side of the room, you'll find pit-fired pottery by Marlene Boyle. Her pinch pots are so organic they seem to have been created by Mother Nature herself.

Even the hallways are filled with art. I am very fond of the vases by Tracey Seder on the top left of the bookcase.

They remind me of Cycladic jars, an ancient find from an Aegean archaeological dig.

The walls of the hallway are lined with fine art, including Red Face, mixed media by West Virginia artist Robert Villamagna.

And a fruit series by Marian Sallade, who describes her work as "realistic impressionism."

The hallway opens up into what perhaps was the former dining room. Here you'll find all sorts of treasures, including small landscapes by plein air painter Ron Donoughe ...

sweet, hand-knitted baby sweaters by Helene Stokan ...

  ... and a fused glass window designed by Cyndy Mullen, that incorporates bits of bottles and stemware.

I never tire of The Gallery on 43rd Street. There are too many things to see on one visit. Besides, the exhibits change frequently. You never know what you might spy. Earrings made from bottle caps! Who needs Versailles?

The Gallery on 43rd Street
187 43rd Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15201

Open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
412-683-6488
galleryon43rdstreet@yahoo.com

An ancient art steps into the future

O'Bannon Oriental Carpets in Lawrenceville just got a new shipment of rugs. Many are contemporary designs, some traditional. They'll make your eyes smile, your feet happy, and your wallet sigh with relief.

O'Bannon has a big deal for you on smaller rugs -- rugs 5 by 7 or smaller, like the ones at left. Ten to 50 percent off! Heck, for a lot of us in L'Ville, 5 by 7 is a room-size rug!

How small is smaller? O'Bannon even carries 1 by 1 foot rugs. 1 by 1! Aren't you dying to see what a 1 by 1 rug looks like?

As soon as you walk through O'Bannon's door (at 3803 Butler Street), you are greeted with a cheery hello! by owner Kristen Rockwell. If you were expecting a stuffy store staffed by overbearing sales people, well, fuhgeddaboudit!

You'll recognize Kristen by her trademark blue jeans, naturally curly hair and big smile. If you look up "laid back" or "easy-going" in the dictionary, I swear you'll find her picture. She's a weaver herself, with a wealth of knowledge about exotic locales and traditions.

A visit to O'Bannon's, you see, is a tour of ancient civilizations like Afghanistan, Persia and Tibet.

The Persian rug at left, woven by women with traditional methods in a modern motif, has so much movement in its design that the squares appear to be dancing. Reminiscent of Klimt. It's one of my favorites in the new shipment.

Another rug that I couldn't stop admiring was the "argyle" -- a rug that reminds me of Scotland, if Scotland had Kabul as its capital or Edinburgh overlooked the Persian Gulf. Argyle? Diamond? Diagonal stripes? Its colors and patterns have to be seen in person to really appreciate its vibrancy. Gray and other neutrals, uh, ground its design. The reds and blues make it soar. Oh, forgot to mention: This rug is about 4 by 6. Yes! That's right! It's on sale too!

Do you prefer solid colors? O'Bannon has a variety. Rugs of a single color but many moods. Colors as blue and restful as a Bishapur sky. Colors as earthy and watchful as the wine-dark sea.

Don't forget to wander downstairs where you'll find furniture and more contemporary designs.

The rustic Chinese bench, at left, is a piece so versatile it could be used in any room. A hall table. A side table. A skinny and snazzy coffee table in a narrow sitting room. A one-of-a-kind bedside table. You name it. Its rustic finish and simple lines make the perfect seasoning for modern decor.

At O'Bannon's, as you wander into the past, you'll take a leap into the future.

O'Bannon Oriental Carpets
3803 Butler Street
Pittsburgh PA 15201

Tue-Fri 11:00-6:00
Sat 11:00-5:00
or by appointment
412-621-0700
info@obannonrugs.com

What's for breakfast?

For residents of Lawrenceville, it's Christmas morning in June and Santa has arrived with fresh baguettes in his basket.

Customers started flocking to La Gourmandine as soon as it opened its doors at 7:30 this morning.

Yes, the baguettes are real flutes of fresh French bread. At only $1.95 per loaf, you'll want to get one to eat in the morning and one for dinner. 

The baguettes are the perfect size. Bread like this is meant to be enjoyed the very same day, not kept on a shelf or, god forbid, saved in a fridge or freezer.

La Gourmandine offers other breakfast items: Danish, cinnamon rolls and brioches. (About $1.50 each)

A real treat for Americans are chouquettes. Small pastry puffs dusted with sugar (seen at right), they are crisp and airy. A perfect bite or two or three to have with your morning coffee. (The chouquettes are 30 cents each.)

Gods and monsters on Butler Street

What men or gods are these? What maidens loth? What mad pursuit? What struggle to escape? What pipes and timbrels? What wild ecstasy?

At O'Bannon Oriental Carpets, art isn't just underfoot, it's outside.

They arrived on Saturday, a new shipment of garden statuary looking like ancient messengers trapped in concrete.

There's Atlas, above left, with the weight of the world on his shoulders for the rest of time. He's oblivious to the less-than-handsome Pan, above right, with his flute of seven reeds.

Look closer. Pan has a sly smile on his face. Does he still dream of chasing nymphs? Is the god of shepherds forever piping songs forever new?

Both Atlas and Pan have been "cast" in the role of telamones, columns or supports for a building sculpted in the shape of men.

Their architectural sister the caryatid, left, seems all too lifelike. She's not kidding around, is she. Would you call her gaze determined? Sullen? Is she playing hard to get?

These architectural elements are more than decorative objects for your garden. They tease us out of thought: They remind us of the importance of strength or endurance. 

In addition to large statuary, O'Bannon also has some smaller pieces to hang on a wall or place among your flower beds.

This plaque seems to be Medusa. You know the saying "if looks could kill"? Well, her looks could. In fact, it was she who caused Atlas' misfortune. One look at her head and Atlas was turned into a mountain, a mountain so high he seemed to be supporting the heavens.

Here they both are, endlessly repeating the ancient past in the little yard on Butler Street between O'Bannon and Coca Cafe. 

The garden statues can be viewed 24/7 at 3803 Butler Street in Lawrenceville.

O'Bannon Oriental Carpets

Tue-Fri 11:00-6:00
Sat 11:00-5:00
or by appointment
412-621-0700
info@obannonrugs.com

The ultimate in fitness

You may not think it's possible, but in one hour you can travel from Japan to Brazil and land in Pittsburgh. How? By taking a martial arts class at Renzo Gracie Pittsburgh Academy in Lawrenceville.

Warren Stout, the fitness center's owner and instructor, carries on a tradition in jiu jitsu that was brought to Brazil by a Japanese judo expert in the early part of the last century. The Gracie family, a Brazilian clan of Scottish descent, turned the martial art into a sport.

"The Gracie family are technical and martial arts innovators," said Stout,  who was a championship wrestler at Lehigh University in Bethlehem, Penn. "Part of their genius was the way they have marketed the sport."

Funny business

You can't stop smiling when you go to Divertido in Lawrenceville. One of the anchors of the rejuvenated Butler Street, it's the shop that never loses its sense of humor.

That's the plan, said owner Mary Ellen Gubanic, who likes to keep things fresh. She's always on the lookout at gift shows and online for something a little bit different.

Perhaps the best translation for Divertido, which is Spanish, would be whimsical. Like Disneyland, it's fun for all ages.

For the tiniest customer (and grandparents everywhere), there are onesies with attitude (top). For children over 5, you'll find puzzles based on classic stories like Peter Pan ($42, above). Made in the USA out of wood, the puzzles  make an instant heirloom.

You'll spin more than 33 rpm when you see the wide bracelet cuffs crafted from old vinyl records. (About $25)

Is Dad's wallet falling apart? Divertido has a Dynomighty solution just in time for Father's Day. Impossibly slender and incredibly lightweight, the wallets are made from Tyvek -- you know, that water-resistant and tear-resistant stuff used to make FedEx envelopes. You've got to hold the wallet in your hands to believe it. The material will naturally expand as Dad stashes away cash and credit cards. There are plenty of designs to choose from, like the homage to Warhol. These wallets aren't just for guys -- girls will love them too. Hey, this is the new millennium!

For her, there are linen scarves ($78). Sheer happiness!

Open since 2004, Divertido's merchandise is always evolving. It's kind of  like the charming guy who keeps you guessing. What will be in store next week?


Divertido

3701 Butler Street

Pittsburgh, PA 15201
412-687-3701

Aroma of fresh bread is right around the corner

The arrondisement of Lawrenceville has a treat in store. A new bakery is about to open at 4605 avenue Butler.

La Gourmandine will soon be rolled out by owner and pastry-maker Fabien Moreau, who trained at Lenôtre, the premier school of patisserie arts in Paris.

"We plan to serve traditional French baked goods. Different types of bread, the famous baguette of course, what we call 'Viennoiseries' (danishes) like croissants, brioches, pain au chocolat, pain au raisins," said Lisanne Lorin-Moreau, Fabien's wife. "Also pastries, chocolat éclairs, fruit tartes," anything you would expect at a French bakery, she added.

Patisserie is truly an art form. If I can measure out my life in espresso spoons, the experiences were made memorable by the perfect brioche in the morning or a lovely éclair in the afternoon.

Lawrenceville has longed for a bread bakery, but real brioches a few blocks away from me? A dream come true.

I now hike all the way to Enrico Biscotti in the Strip District to get a loaf of bread. No doubt Lawrenceville soon will become the destination for god's-honest patisseries.  

Grazing, along Butler Street

I admit it. My dog is a beggar. And a schmoozer. And a flirt.

She's also hard-headed. Lately this has led to an interesting turn of events.

No longer does she want to walk by the river. Bunnies? Boring! Arsenal Park? Been there, she says, done that!

What is her preferred route these days? A stroll down Butler Street. It's a time-consuming -- and calorie counting -- exercise, I can assure you.

Minerva may be a mutt, but she's had a discerning palate since the day I met her -- at the pound. Concrete. Iron bars. Dry food. It's a wonder she survived.

It's all Greek to me

Everybody say it with me: pah-STEET-see-oh. You'll want to make sure you know how to pronounce Pastitsio when you tell your friends about Lawrenceville's newest deli and takeout.

Pastitsio forms part of what has become a golden delta of eateries at Butler and 38th Street. It's next door to Round Corner Cantina and kitty corner from Piccolo Forno, which has just been knighted by Pittsburgh Magazine as one of the city's 25 best restaurants.

What the heck does Pastitsio mean? A pastitsio is a mixture: a baked pasta with seasoned meat, topped with white sauce and cheese. Looks like lasagna, tastes like pastitsio. It's that hint of cinnamon that you'll remember. In Greece, it's a comfort food.

As you can see from the menu (above), the deli serves a lot more than pastitsio. The menu will evolve, with different items each week, said  owner Stamatis L. Bournias, who is known as Matt.

The deli's interior is a bright space, with a few tables for those of us who can't wait to try some shrimp and feta, or a piece of baklava.

This week, Pastitsio will be open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., but Matt plans to extend the hours soon.

And he already has plans for expansion -- outdoors. There's a lawn on the left side of Pastitsio that would be perfect for picnic tables, Matt said.

Get a little Greek. Who wants to cook on a warm night?


Pastitsio
3716 Butler Street
Phone: 412.586.7656
Fax: 412.586.7659

In memoriam

The Bird House

One of our favorite houses in Lawrenceville!

Many of us put out a bird feeder or a bird bath, but this house is a veritable urban wildlife sanctuary.


Although the homeowner has rescued many different kinds of birds, you will recognize her house by the humble pigeons who gather there.

Fair is fowl, and fowl is fair

Here's the scoop on Dozen's new coop.

One of Dozen's bakers is raising chickens at her Butler home. She has nine birds, some named after Dozen staff members.

The hens aren't producing yet, but Dozen is counting its chicken eggs before they're laid.

The bakery and cafe uses hundreds of eggs every week, said James Gray, Dozen's owner and L'Ville's unofficial ambassador. James expects to get only a small amount of eggs from these hens to use for select items. "All of our eggs do come from local sources, but that source is a larger producer," he said.

Will we see one of these cuties on the menu for, say, chicken pot pie? "NO!" James said. "Eggs only."

Whew!

Photo courtesy of James Gray

Tie me up! Tie me down!

You can tie me into any silky knot you want with one of these. The patterns recall the 1940s, or something you saw in an Almodóvar movie.

Found at Ambiance, 4735 Butler St. The ties here, located at the front of the store, run about $20 to $35. Ambiance, however, is a "shop with a purpose" -- proceeds benefit homeless women. In order to constantly make room for more merchandise, the prices go down week after week (and the clothes in the front move toward the rear of the store). Que bueno!

By the way, if you didn't catch Almodóvar's latest, Broken Embraces is now showing On Demand. Best movie I've seen in months.

Sunday morning, praise the dawning

I've got a restless feeling. Looking for Elements? Your favorite vintage furnishings store has moved uptown, taking Butler Street's best-kept secret with it.

There's nothing like Sundays. Brunch at Coca, then browsing at Elements. But did you take a last sip of your latte this morning and leave Coca only to find that Elements was gone? Don't worry, it's not gone. It's just up Butler Street.

Oh, what a world ...

. . . it seems we live in. 

 

Prints from the 1940s/50s. In original frames.

Makes any boy feel like picking up roses.

Found at Dandelions. About $17.99 each or $50 for all three.

The shop around the corner

Ever get the munchies late on Saturday night, say after midnight, and decide to make cookies or (cough) brownies? You've creamed the sugar with the butter and beaten the eggs when you discover you're out of flour? Will Shursave or Giant Eagle even be open?
Never fear! Lamont Gilmore is here! 

Forget Venice

What makes a city the most livable?
Forbes used five criteria: unemployment, crime, income growth, the cost of living, and artistic and cultural opportunities. But the magazine left out the most important reason to call someplace home: It’s how it makes you feel. It’s a city’s vibe.

Je t'adore The Door House!

One of our favorite houses in Lawrenceville! The house that turns the saying "you make a better door than a window" inside out. What great colors! Remind you of San Francisco's Painted Ladies?

If you have a favorite house in L'Ville, tell us about it! Post pix! (But do the homeowner a favor and keep the exact address to yourself. 'Kay?)

It's almost Mother's Day. Let's go shopping!

You're looking for something a little bit different. It has to be something special. Something vintage! No matter your budget, you can find the perfect gift only a few blocks away.